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    Lisa 4 Comments Dating jewelry is done through multiple methods: James Cox developed a method of backing silver with a thin sheet of gold in This is significant in dating jewelry since it means gold-backed silver is post, and not from the earliest decades of the Georgian era. However, the absence of gold backing does not mean that a piece is pre Gold Back of Georgian Hair Ornament hair pin is later addition This means that not all Georgian jewelry was completely handmade.

    The British began to allow production of jewelry using 9 carat, 12 carat, and 15 carat gold in Prior to this date British gold jewelry was supposed to be 18 carat gold. Therefore, if jewelry is marked 9, 12, or 15 carat it is post In the absence of other indicators this can help you determine country of origin. Prior to coin silver silver was the US standard.

    The Vernuil flame-fusion process of creating synthetic sapphires and rubies was invented. While some other methods of producing synthetic gemstones had previously been invented, this was the first commercially successful and economical method of producing synthetic stones.

    Synthetic rubies started to appear commercially in and synthetic sapphires in The alloy for white gold was patented in After this date, unless you have a gemological report confirming that the pearls are natural, it should be assumed that they are cultured. If a piece of pearl jewelry is clearly pre, there is a good chance that the pearls are natural although larger, valuable, natural pearls were sometimes sold and replaced with cultured pearls. The country known as Czechoslovakia was formed following WWI.

    Therefore when dating costume jewelry, pieces containing aurora borealis stones are post Discovery of tanzanite in Tanzania. Commercial production of cubic zirconia CZ began in The style of hallmarking Mexican jewelry changed around From until that time Mexican jewelry was hallmarked with an eagle assay mark.

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    After Mexican jewelry was hallmarked with a string of letters and numbers: Therefore Mexican jewelry with an eagle assay mark will date from ; Mexican jewelry with a string of letters and numbers will be post If there is no eagle assay mark and no string of letters and numbers this MAY mean that a piece is earlier thanhowever, it also may mean that they piece was not sent to an assay office for hallmarking. Mexican Eagle Assay Mark.
    Whether updating a collection, searching for information about a family heirloom, or assisting a colleague or customer, dating a piece of vintage costume jewelry can present a challenge.

    Less familiar primary sources such as patents and copyrights, books about specific companies, and period advertisements also provide a wealth of information to assist with dating. For this article, examples from the mid-twentieth century will be provided, though the techniques and tools described here could be used for dating jewelry from other periods.

    After Trifari won a court case in for copyright infringement, patenting these types of designs was widely discontinued and replaced by the less-expensive process of design copyrighting. It is obvious that Trifari and Coro patent information can be used to date pieces of their manufacture. However, this information can also be used to assist with dating jewelry made by other companies. The patented designs from a given year or a given decade show the popularity of styles, materials and themes, and indicate the types of findings and the methods of construction being used for the time period.

    Prior to the early s, typical necklace clasp styles used by Coro and Trifari were spring ring, push also known as boxor fold-over. In the s, a new type of clasp using a hook and extender became popular for costume jewelry necklaces.

    The other types of clasps continued to be used, and are still used today. However, if you were dating a necklace that has an original hook-and-extender clasp, you could begin your research with the assumption that the piece was likely made no earlier than the s.

    When available, copyright information can be used in the same manner. A great example is jewelry manufactured by Hollycraft during the s. Since Hollycraft was not a huge manufacturer like Coro or Trifari, and had a more defined style, this information is not of great use in identifying general styles of the decade.

    However, determining findings popularly used is possible. From throughthe survey found no examples of screw-back earring findings on the dated Hollycraft pieces. If attempting to date a pair of earrings with screw-back findings, this information can be used to focus your research to before the mids.

    DeLizza, and Melinda L. It is known that they were in business and marking jewelry with the Florenza brand beginning in the early s until the company closed in February of The author is attempting to date pieces of this jewelry to specific decades.

    Here is one example: After summarizing this information in list form, one can note that large navettes and ovals, and givre stones were popular during the years through Also during this period, the company is producing necklace, bracelet, pin and earrings sets. Combining this information and specifics mentioned in these books, the author is dating this Florenza set to circa early s.

    Another category of Florenza jewelry for dating research is the selection of large charm bracelets produced by the company, such as the two pictured here click on images for larger view: Referencing The Napier Co. Other sources confirm dating this style of Florenza charm bracelets to circa s.

    Trifari and Coro advertised extensively during the s, s and s, as did many other costume jewelry companies. A large number of vintage advertisements and catalogs are available to view online, and the following websites have extensive examples: Researching Costume Jewelry at http: In an amazing coincidence, the jewelry and the vintage advertisement were found by the author within a three-month period, with the assistance of another CJCI member, Robin Deutsch.

    Palm Royale Jewelry Advertisement from with matching Palm Royale jewelry The three key primary dating tools, patents and copyrights, books about specific companies, and period advertisements, can be used as an initial step when researching a particular piece of jewelry. Once primary sources are exhausted, many well-regarded books are great secondary tools for dating.

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